Brown patch treatment

Excessive moisture around the grass greatly contributes to problems with brown patch and other fungal diseases. A deep weekly irrigation that supplies the lawn with 1 inch of water and moistens the top 4 to 6 inches of soil is usually sufficient.

Any irrigation should occur in the morning so the grass blades can dry off quickly, as the grass blades must remain continuously wet for 10 hours for infection to occur. Compacted soils can create drainage problems and regular core aeration can alleviate this. Excessive or fast-release nitrogen fertilizer applications, especially in late spring or summer for cool-season grasses, encourages a flush of tender new growth particularly susceptible to brown patch.

Inadequate phosphorous or potassium can also contribute to brown patch. Generally, a complete slow-release fertilizer applied at a rate no greater than 1 pound of nitrogen per square feet of lawn, with each application spaced 6 to 8 weeks apart when the grass is actively growing is sufficient. No more than three or four applications each year are needed. Brown patch is a fungus causing brown circles in your lawn during the hot humid months of summer.

Why did they find it in Antarctica then? Because brown patch can remain dormant for many years. The reason you notice it now is because it has become active, the good news is we can control it! Like the name would lead you to believe, brown patch causes a brownish discoloration of your turfgrass. More specifically, it starts out with lesions on the grass blades shown here. As brown patch develops, these lesions spread to cover the entire grass blade, causing thinning and matting of the turf.

On shorter lawns, these patches may appear to have a "smoke ring" of dark gray around the outer edge. Use a tape measure to evaluate the width and length of your brown patch. Then, purchase a piece of sod from your local gardening store that will fully cover the area. Be sure to select the correct turfgrass sod for your lawn, identify the grass you have growing, and try to match this when buying pieces of sod.

Using a sharp shovel or garden tool, cut a piece of sod that is slightly larger than the area you are covering. Applying a small amount of fertilizer to the soil before laying sod will encourage the roots to establish and anchor down the sod piece. Place the sod on top of the brown patch matching the shape as best you can. Compress the sod down into the lawn by tamping it down with a rake and then immediately walking on it.

The sod will need more water than regular seed grass. Keep the area moist by watering two to three times a day if needed. Monitor the edges of the new sod — they will dry out first. Hold off applying any weed control to the new area until you have mowed at least three times. This will prevent any turf injury and allow the turf to establish. When the turf is bonded and actively growing, you can assume regular lawn treatment schedules.

This will usually be around 14 days after the sod has been placed. However, be careful not to cut this new grass too short when you start mowing. There you have it! Now you know how to fix a brown patch in your lawn. Follow these easy steps for how to solve this problem and repair dead grass on your own.

If you find that the brown patch es or dead grass are a recurring issue, call us today for a free lawn consultation. Find out how we can help you better care for your lawn. This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible.

Leaf wetness can originate from irrigation, dew, or guttation which is the water that is sometimes exuded from turfgrass leaves during the night. To minimize leaf wetness, do not irrigate daily. Instead, irrigation should be applied based on weather conditions and the water requirements of the turf. The time of day that irrigation is applied is also critical; it is best to irrigate early in the morning, just before sunrise. This removes large droplets of dew and water from the leaves and speeds drying of the foliage after sunrise.

Avoid watering after sunrise or in the late afternoon or evening, as this will increase the duration of leaf wetness. In golf course turf, daily removal of morning dew can help to shorten leaf wetness periods and reduce brown patch development.

This can be accomplished by mowing, dragging a hose, or by whipping the greens with a bamboo or fiberglass pole. Proper landscape design and site preparation can help to minimize brown patch problems. Turf surrounded by trees, shrubs, buildings, or other barriers will remain wet for extended periods of time due to reduced air movement and sunlight. Removal or pruning of trees and other barriers will help minimize leaf wetness and discourage brown patch development.

In shady areas, plant turfgrass species that are tolerant of low light levels, such as hard fescue, chewings fescue, or strong creeping red fescue.. Good surface and soil drainage will also help reduce the incidence of brown patch. Avoid establishing turf in low areas that collect water or in soil that is heavily compacted. Aerate high-traffic areas each fall to reduce compaction and maintain soil drainage.

Golf course putting greens should be cultivated regularly to maintain soil drainage and aeration. Fungicides are effective for brown patch control, and can be applied on a preventative or curative basis.